[A repeat from August 24, 2014] Years ago, in another life, I traveled to Spain and Portugal frequently. I would normally come back with suitcases chock full of handwritten manuscripts. Some dating to the 1400’s. There were the Spanish garrison records for Gibraltar (from before the British occupation), a thousand page manuscript history of the Church in Santiago de Compostela (1540-1822), the Jesuit diaries in Goa (India) dating to the early 1500’s and so on.
As we all say when time goes by – “those were the days.” In Lisbon, during one visit, I found it. I found the cemetery of the books. This was a term made popular by Carlos Ruiz Zafon in his must read book The Shadow of the Wind. The cemetery of the books in Lisbon was a 3 or 4 story warehouse on a narrow street in the Bairo Alto. It was chock full of manuscripts, rare books and manuscript books. It was not a museum or archive. It was literally a cemetery of rarities. Which one could buy for a song. Few people knew about this place. And somehow I had stumbled upon it. For those who are squeamish, stop reading here.
The books and manuscripts I would pull off the shelves were literally crawling with dust mites and lice. All manner of insects. Vermin scooted in the corners and along the walls. But oh my – the things that were there. I would load up suitcases with books and manuscripts – carefully wrapping them in plastic bags – and bring them home. Once home, I would put the plastic bags in a large freezer for a month or two (a recommended Rx for dealing with the creepy crawlers) and later leaf through what I had found. Create listings and sell them. But on one sad trip to Lisbon, I arrived at the cemetery of the books and – it was no more. It had burned to the ground a month or two before. I still have an item or two or three left from these forays. Regrettably the cemetery of books is no more. If it was still there, I might still visit Lisbon every few months. . . . .